Highly recommended restaurant: Eleven Madison Park.
Well, we have now tried the “in” eatery of the moment. Called “Eleven Madison Square” that is its address. Here we had a magnificent experience with a full and elegant lunch. Our friends had advised us to beg, borrow or steal … but just try to fit it into the last few days in Manhattan. Everything we were told was correct.
It is indeed a unique and pleasant location being the huge lobby of an old insurance building (Metropolitan Life built in 1909) now the home of Credit Swisse. The enormous chamber has full height windows revealing the gardens opposite which are just coming into life for spring. Rather than a cold old financial institution, several low partitions make for three pleasant eating areas on split levels along with a corridor and adjacent bar. There appear to be private rooms upstairs as well.
While we awaited our menus there was a plate of six gruyere cheese profiteroles to whet our appetites. They tasted more like aged Parmigiano to me. Either way, they were delectable. As we discussed them we discovered our “menus” were in place … printed onto a small square card beneath our serviettes (read napkins in vernacular).
Rather than the usual list of recommended dishes, the ‘menu’ was a checkerboard of sixteen ingredients in four columns and rows. Those who have eaten here will know that rather than being presented with a nominated dish in detail, one chooses a main ingredient, gives a list of any dislikes or allergies, and the chef spins a wonder in the kitchen. And while he/she is getting artistic, the patron is brought a pot of tea in a classic hotel type Sheffield plate teapot. But the “tea” is actually smoked halibut stock with a bunch of herbs for the cup to dunk. Quite delicious with a hint of pea, thyme amongst a clear, delicate seafood stock. It was all I could do to resist asking for milk and sugar!
One is informed that one may order three courses for $56 or four for $74 … but it is more like 7 or 8 when you add the inter-course sabayon, amuse-bouches, petits fours and savoury tea which just arrive unannounced. Nor does this include the delicious hot brioche and choice of Californian goats butter or the Vermont cows version (both perfect temperature and delicious on the ‘bread’). Each of the courses was as surprising as it was delicious.
I chose crab for first course and the product made me realise that this cook was a devotee of the art of ‘cuisine compliquée’. Five small round rice paper sandwiches contained the thinnest slice of Japanese pickle and crab mince with lobster crème sauce and viola petals with ‘ground coral’ (there was no grittiness and I think it was there for colour only). Adjacent to each there were also 5 tiny blobs of thickened orange sauce speared by a small vertical ear of dill. This was five mouthfuls of excellent mixed flavours and textures. Somehow the crab was almost overpowered … but not quite. So judgment was on hold. Next, and without ordering it, we were presented with two slices of thin crispy seaweed flavoured lavash, served with two egg shells, neatly sliced off and filled with warm smoked sturgeon mousseline with chive oil and tiny cubes of smoked fish below. Again, this was delicious but it was not clear how the crisp bread went with the mousse and one seemed to have no choice but to eat them separately.
Following this I had chosen halibut (not knowing we were to be served ‘halibut tea’ on arrival). This was poached in olive oil (‘in a bag’, we were told on enquiry, explaining both how its structure was so well preserved and the lack of any oiliness). With it came spliced baby radishes, leaves attached, one fresh and one pickled - colour and size of the four halves were identical. There was also some excellent sauce, all surrounded with ‘lobster oil’, whatever that may be. There was a substantial amount of fish in two pieces placed end to end. Each serving was a picture postcard of colour, symmetry and textures (I took a couple of sample photos).
But the red squab was the triumph. If the above two savoury choices were somewhat synthesised the pigeon was a piece of simplicity in comparison - it was all ‘bird’. There was a tranche of pink breast which had been poached and then roasted with a leg which had been previously cooked and exhumed as a confit. Apart from the size, it would be hard to tell the difference between the latter and duck confit, having similar taste and texture. However, the pigeon breast was uniquely flavoured. It is hard to imagine that a small game could produce such a large piece of meat as it was six or seven magic mouthfuls, each portion sliced through the red meat along with a thin layer of fat and skin. It was served with three styles of sweet potato including a crisp chip, roast and mash. A demi-glaze was spooned onto the dish at the table. 
My friend had ordered two savoury courses, cauliflower and pork with a dessert of pear. The cauliflower was a seared segment about a centimetre thick surmounted by dehydrated grapes or rehydrated raisins. The pork consisted of two contrasting pieces of suckling pig and confit of pork neck. It had skin which had lost any crispiness which was adjacent to tender white meat. His pear looked splendid having three types of pear (poached, toffee and crumble) in a sauce duet composed as a work of art. The courses did not lend themselves to sharing around the table, being relatively small servings and with multifarious ingredients. 
I noted on several occasions that there seemed to be more staff than diners. Yet they were all as professional as could be with the women mostly serving wine and young men the food. Not one had a ring on any finger, rather like in the opera where it is considered unprofessional to wear any personal jewellery on stage. I don’t know if this was just a house rule, OHS or coincidence.
After dessert and an offer of tea or coffee we were brought another black igneous block with some microscopic petit fours consisting of two tiny individual carrot cakes and another pair of mint/chocolate layer cakes (both of which fell apart as we picked them up).
Others were served a ‘milk-shake’ which rather than chocolate was made with malt essence and seltzer water with some drops of some flavouring, perhaps vanilla. I heard the waiter tell our neighbours that this was an old fashioned summer drink and a local tradition. I note one table nearby sent all of them back almost untouched. Perhaps the fare was just slightly over the top and too much.
An intriguing two hour sitting of culinary melodies. But did they join to make the balanced symphonic movements found in the masterpieces? I think not … but pleased that people are still trying new things. We were to eat at Jean-Georges on the Monday, knowing that it is a totally different type of cuisine, but probably more to my tastes. “Eleven” may be the Wozzek or Modigiani of restaurants while I am more comfortable with Tosca and Renoir.
Comments by Andrew Byrne ..
The original Metlife Tower erected in 1909 adjacent to 1893 block which was headquarters of the Metropolitan Life Insurance Company. The web site states: Our menu format is intended to offer an experience in which our guests can enjoy the inherent surprise of a tasting menu, while still maintaining some control. Dishes are listed solely by their principal ingredients, and guests are invited to make their selections, share any thoughts or preferences, including any ingredient dislikes, and allow us to design their meal from there.
Lunch- Three courses for $56, Four Courses for $74
Dinner- Four Courses for $125, Tasting Menu for $195
